Dirtbike Carb 101 Part 3 Lets Put It Back Together!

If you are just joining this class and would like to read lesson 1 it can be found here.

Here is an exploded view of the carburetor with all of the key parts labeled. Everything has been cleaned or replaced and is now ready to be re-assembled!

motorcycle carb exploded view
The red lines indicate which hole the various parts go in.

The first thing you want to do when you pull the carburetor body out of the parts washer is to take a compressed air gun or a can of spray carb cleaner and blow out all of the  holes and passages in carburetor body. In general if you spray cleaner into any port on the body it should come out somewhere else. This is to get all of the passages completely clear. Do wear some eye protection while you are doing this.

motorcycle dirtbike mixture screw, main jet & idle jet
mixture screw, main jet & idle jet

In this picture I have already re-installed the needle jet, main jet holder & jet, and the idle or slow jet as some like to call it. The mixture adjustment screw is leaning up against the carb so you can see how the spring, washer, and o-ring fit over it in that order. This screw goes into the large hole on the right side of this picture. To install it pick up the carb with one hand, and hold it upright, with your other hand take the assembled mixture screw components and place them up into the hole and turn the screw until it has engaged the threads and will stay in. Return it to the workbench and turn the screw all the way in until it just touches the bottom. Do not tighten it! Do you remember how many turns you have to back it out to reach it’s original position that it was in before you removed it? I told you to write it down in lesson 2. If not check your service manual for the initial starting position, and be prepared to tweak it a little til you get a smooth transition from idle to accelerating.

Now it is time to re-install the float. There is usually a small wire retainer over the float valve that slides over a matching tab between the floats. Holding it together place the float valve into the brass ringed hole shown on the left side of the picture above. Then you should be able to slide the retainer pin in from one side to hold it into place, like this.

Honda xr 100 carb floats installed
carburetor floats installed

 

Don’t forget to put the little plastic shroud back on in the same way it came off.

Normally I wish vile and unspeakable torture on people whom make the mistake of using any type of gasket sealers on any type of fuel system assembly, but there is always an exception to every rule. In this case the fit of the float bowl o-ring into its groove on the float bowl was just not good enough to hold it into place so I applied a very thin film of  a gasoline resistant, Permatex product. A small amount of Permatex 1 or similar product. Use just barely enough to hold the gasket in place. After all you don’t want it squeezing out and stopping up your nice clean carburetor do you?

dirt bike carb float bowl gasket
carburetor float bowl gasket

Of course if the gasket will stay in place by itself long enough to get the float bowl screwed back into place I never put any kind of adhesive on it. but sometimes life just doesn’t work that way.

Once you have the float bowl back on it’s time to reassemble the slide. If you are replacing the needle  aka the metering rod, be sure you put the tiny little e clip on it in the same groove that the original one was in on the old needle. Push the needle in through the hole in the center and instal the retainer as shown.

metering rod & slide
metering rod & slide
retainer clip and needle nose pliers
retainer clip and needle nose pliers

 

This picture shows the retainer installed in the slide, exact positioning is not important just be sure you don’t block the slot on the side that the throttle cable goes through.

motorcycle metering rod retainer installed
motorcycle jet needle (metering rod) retainer installed

 

Now go bolt the carburetor back to the engine (remove the plug from the intake first if you used one), hook up the air cleaner hoses, new gas filter etc. This is the time to be sure the air filter is clean also.

Now back to the slide it only fits into the carb one way so if it does not smoothly slide all the way to the bottom something is wrong. This shot shows how the slide has a notch for the idle speed adjustment screw.

Honda xr 100 carb slide and spring
xr100 carburetor slide and spring

Now reverse the steps from lesson one to reinstall the slide to the end of the throttle cable under the top of the carburetor and then slide it into place and tighten the cap down by hand. Guess what? It is time to re-connect the gas tank and fill it with fresh fuel. I consider installing a new fuel filter mandatory and so should you.

motorcycle fuel filter
motorcycle fuel filter on Honda XR

 

Once you have the engine up and running you may need to set the idle speed using the idle speed screw as indicated here.

dirtbike idle speed adjustment
XR100 idle speed adjustment screw

Let the engine warm up thoroughly for a few minutes before making any final adjustments to either the idle speed screw or the pilot mixture screw. If you need to adjust anything make changes in very small increments.

Now go have some fun!

Dirtbike Carburetor 101 Part Two!

Welcome back everyone,

At the end of the last class we ended with the carb sitting on the bench and the intake port in the head plugged to keep out dirt & small critters. Now let’s pull off the vent hoses and turn it upside down on the bench like this.

Take note of the pilot mixture adjustment screw that I have labeled here for you. I will be giving you a tip about it later in the lesson so be ready to refer back to this picture if you need to. Please remember these are not in the same place on all carburetors. I have seen them on the top and on the side depending upon the make and model. Some late model machines have them hidden under aluminum caps to keep you from tampering with them, but if you have a real problem you can remove the caps to repair it. Just be sure to replace them especially if you have to pass emissions inspections in your state. As usual I recommend you consult your handy dandy service manual for your motorcycle just to be on the safe side, because some carbs have more than one aluminum plug and you don’t want to remove the wrong one. Trust me I know….

Of course this bike has none of those annoying issues so let’s go ahead and take the screws out of the float bowl and look inside.

EWWW!

Now I am a fairly environmentally conscious guy, I grow organic veggies, the shop that I work in is powered by solar electricity, drive reasonably efficient vehicles etc. but you will never convince me in a million years that today’s gasoline is good for the environment. Once the lead was removed there really was not that much left to improve. There is no way  fuel that will rapidly break down into this toxic and corrosive sludge as fast as the fuel made in this day and time, can possibly be good for the environment. Just think of what it is doing to your vehicles as they sit in the driveway right now.

Let me get out of rant mode and get on with the lesson; here’s a shot of it with the float removed. You should be able to push the pin out to one side with a small punch and lift the float and float needle (float valve) out of the bottom of the carb.

So when someone tells you the float is sticking this is what they are talking about. Sticking floats are usually caused by either a piece of trash getting under the point of the float valve, or if the motor has been sitting by gasoline evaporating, and gluing it into place with a coat of gunk like you see here.

In this next shot I have removed the jets and the mixture adjustment screw. Even if you have a service manual handy, before removing the mixture screw, turn it all the way in slowly and count how many turns it takes to go all the way in. Write the number down somewhere, and then remove the screw along with the spring the washer and the o-ring that are in the hole under it.

You’ll probably have to dig for the o-ring using a piece of wire or a small pick like I did above.

At this point all of the metal parts are ready for a good long soak in the parts washer or carburetor cleaner until tomorrow. In fact the longer the better. Gather up some supplies.

If you have an air compressor and a parts washer you may not need the spray carb cleaner. If you don’t have a compressor it is mandatory even with a parts washer or a dip bucket of carburetor cleaner. For this bike I did pick up a carburetor overhaul kit. If your o-rings are all still in good shape and you can get all of your jets spotless you may not need it, but it is often difficult to clean the idle jet good enough to work again even with all of the right tools. If it’s my own bike, and I am broke that week, I might chance it, cause hey it’s part of the price I pay for this hobby. If it is your bike, you are getting new parts, because if it does not work, then I would be working on it for free and that would just piss me off. You would probably be upset at me too.

Here’s a teaser shot of everything laid out on the bench after cleaning, be sure to come back for the next lesson!

exploded view!

Click here to continue this lesson!

Dirt Bike Carburetor 101 Part 1 (how to clean a single cylinder motorcycle or atv carb)

Hello everyone and welcome to this multi-part lesson on the basics of carburetor  cleaning for single cylinder motorcycles. The cadaver we will be resuscitating in this lab is an 02 Honda XR100.

“barn fresh” xr100

Believe it or not this bike would still run with the choke on even with the dead gas and clogged jets, gotta love a Honda! This will be a general step by step guide to repairing carbs, so I will not be giving you the actual specifications as they vary so much from year to year on some bikes. As I’ve said before you need to obtain the specific information for your exact bike from a reputable source like say a service manual. For this first post let me show you how to remove the carburetor from this bike.

First let me say that it is possible to pull the carb from an XR100 without removing the bodywork, but A; you need to clean or replace the air filter and B; if it’s been sitting long enough to need the carburetor cleaned you need dispose of any fuel in the tank and clean it out before re-starting the bike after you finish the carb.

Now take off the side covers. This picture shows the location of the air filter cover on the XR100

Next look under the rear fender and remove the 2 nuts holding the seat on. Then pull it up and rearward to remove it.

I like to put the nuts and any spacers back on the studs like this so they will not get lost. In fact whenever possible I do this for all nuts and bolts as it keeps them from disappearing.

Now go the the fuel switch, valve or petcock, whichever terminology you use for it and turn off the flow of gas to the carburetor and disconnect the fuel line. Be prepared to cut it off with a knife and replace it if necessary.

Remove the rubber strap that holds down on the rear of the fuel tank and the two bolts at the front of the tank.

It is not required that you remove the shrouds like I did for this photo, I simply removed them so that I could show you the location of the bolts at the front of the gas tank.

After setting the gas tank aside in a safe location it is time to disconnect the throttle cable. On some models it attaches to an arm on the side of the carb but on simpler ones like this it is attached directly to the carb slide. Unscrew the cap as indicated by the screwdriver and pull the slide out.

This next shot is a little fuzzy but it indicates how the throttle cable is retained in the slide, and the following picture shows the slot in the side of the slide that allows you to remove it from the cable.

Now all you have to do is to compress the spring and push the end of the cable out of its hole, past the end of the slide, pull it out through the slot and then through the big hole at the top.

Here’s the removed and disassembled slide, jet needle, and return spring laid out for you to see.

Loosen the clamp holding the rubber hose from the air box to the carb and then remove the bolts attaching it to the engine and pull it out.

Yes I’m using the obstruction wrenches again. Two tools that I feel are must haves for any serious cycle mechanic are obstruction wrenches of decent quality and some extra long screwdrivers of the finest quality money can buy (i.e. Snap On etc.) Inexpensive wrenches are often okay but cheap screwdrivers will drive you bleeping crazy, by stripping out the soft metal heads on Japanese motorcycle screws.

Here’s a shot of the carburetor on the workbench. I like to use the red toolbox tray shown to help me organize the parts as I disassemble the carb, and to keep the parts from disappearing into the wormhole that exists behind my workbench. No part that falls back there is ever seen again, so I try to keep them from rolling of of the back edge. No dear reader I am not going to move the bench to look for them either. In my shop I coexist peacefully with all matter of snakes and spiders both harmless and venomous, and that is their territory and I stay out of it.

Don’t’ forget to protect the engine by plugging the intake hole while the carburetor is off.

I’ll show you the rest later, don’t forget to bookmark this page or to sign up for the email notification of updates on the right side of this page. Click here for part two!

Peace Y’all

Seriously Y’all, Replace Those Cotter Pins

ATV wheel with brand new cotter pin

 

The slightly dark picture above shows an ATV that I recently re-installed the hub on. With a new cotter pin in the castle nut. Do yourself a big favor, and no matter what never ever re-use a cotter pin on any thing. Whether is a motorcycle, ATV, automobile, or any other application. They are there to prevent the sudden disastrous failure that could result from a nut coming loose on a critical component. If you really must perform an emergency road or trail side repair and re-use one to get home do not forget to change it ASAP before using the vehicle again. Isn’t your ass worth the small amount of pocket change these things cost?

Yes I practice what I preach, here is the cotter pin assortment that I keep on hand, a couple of sizes need refilling but that’s okay the piece of mind is worth it.

 

Motorcycling and ATV riding is risky business anyway, but if you insist on having a gnarly bone grinding crash, at least let it be because you were doing something stupid and fun, and not that the wheel fell of because you were too cheap to replace a 39 cent cotter pin.

Peace Y’all
‘Psyco

2006 V-Star 650 Basic oil and plug change.

Hello Everyone!

Yes I have been having lots of fun lately, but every now and then you gotta do some work. Let’s turn our attention back to the motorcycling world a bit and I’ll give you a nice meaty maintenance how to for the 2006 Yamaha V-Star 650 pictured above. This is a low mileage bike that is in for a basic oil & spark plug change. I am going to do this down on the ground without using a lift, just like the majority of you who do this yourself will.

First lie down on the left side of the bike and identify the oil drain plug on the side of the block.

This 17mm plug will be a lot easier to remove if you have an obstruction wrench like this, but might be able to be done with a normal box end. (I didn’t try sorry)

These 2 shots show the wrench on the plug for removal to give you a better idea of where it is.

Next to get to the oil filter you have to remove this fake “derby” cover.

Now you can access all 5 of the bolts holding the oil filter cover on.

This long handled ball end Allen wrench is optional but I am glad to have it for jobs like this.

Here’s the back side of the cover showing the location of the long bolt in the center.

Be sure you pay close attention to how the oil filter sits in the crankcase so that you put the new one back in the same way.

Here’s the other end of the filter.

Be sure to clean this hole out well with a CLEAN lint free shop rag.

When you are cleaning the oil filter cover inspect the o-ring thoroughly and if you have any doubt about its condition replace it. Absolutely, under no circumstances should you use any type of sealer here.

The new oil filter is sitting in place.

This shot shows the location of the long bolt on the front of the oil filter cover.

While you are putting the drain plug back in make note of the oil sight glass. For reasons I will explain later I despise these archaic things, especially on bikes without a centerstand. But this engine is actually a detuned and over decorated direct descendant of the best air cooled 1980’s Japanese cruiser to ever exist the Virago, so I understand why this engine has one.

On top of the left crankcase you will find the oil filler cap, take it off, insert a good clean funnel and pour in 2 ½ quarts of any good brand of oil the meets the minimum API standards for the engine. Put the cap back on and get your lovely assistant straddle the bike and hold it straight up and check the oil level in the sight glass. It should be over the top of the glass at this point.

Start the engine and let it run at idle for just a minute and then shut it off.  Once again have your stunning, ravishing, gorgeous, assistant hold the bike in a vertical position and verify the level of oil in the sight glass and if needed add more until it is at least halfway up the sight glass as shown here.

Let me add a slight disclaimer, when checking the oil level resist the urge to nibble on you beautiful assistants ankle, she might be ticklish and drop the motorcycle on your head.

At this point I am ready to replace the spark plugs, first gather your tools and parts. Because the plugs are recessed so deeply into the heads I recommend the use of either a locking extension as shown here or a factory plug wrench.

If you tend to be ham fisted, I am going to urge you to get a service manual and use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs to their specified torque values, because aluminum heads are easy to strip out. I warned you so be careful not to over-tighten your spark plugs.

Here’s a shot of an original plug next to an new plug.

Once you get the first head done, it is time repeat the process on the other cylinder.

Put the wires back on, hit the starter button and go for a ride!

Don’t forget to properly dispose of the old filter and recycle your oil!

Peace Y’all