At the end of my last post about this the engine was sitting on the bench, so let’s pull it apart now. Start with the external accessories such as the starter motor, rope starter, etc.
On a full tear down like this I prefer to remove the clutches from the engine before removing the cylinder and head. That way there’s not any damage to the connecting rod or piston should I accidentally spin the crankshaft around too fast.
Of course the best way to remove the clutch nuts is with an impact wrench, but if you do not have one wedge something good and solid in the clutch gears to hold it still, and don’t forget the centrifugal clutch nut is reverse threaded.
You’ll need a steering wheel puller to get the centrifugal clutch out. It’s possible you could get lucky and break it loose with a rubber hammer, but I doubt it. Don’t try it because you can damage either the clutch, the crankshaft or both by hammering on the clutch.
Now you can see the timing and oil pump drive chain, along with the shifter meachnism in the front of the shifter drum.
After pulling all the little parts off the front making sure to not exactly where all of the thrust washers go, it’s now time to move up top and unbolt the rocker box.
Now set the pushrods off to one side and unbolt the head an pull it straight up to remove and then do the same thing with the cylinder
Here you can see me using the magnet to remove the lifters from their holes.
Next I popped the rear cover off after unbolting it. The magnets in the alternator will make it feel like it is sticking together so be careful.
In these lat 2 pics for the day you can see the alternator parts, the stator is in the top one and the rotor is in the bottom picture. Next time we’ll split the cases!
Peace Y’all
Welcome to the Asylum 
When replacing the cam chain and the oil chain do they go back in with specified guide lines or their is no timing just put chain in any way you can
There are timing marks that have to be aligned, if you don’t already have a service manual you really should get one, it’s a whole lot safer than searching on the internet.
Get a Honda Recon Service Manual HereWhen timing the motor the cam has the stamp 250 an two the left of the number is a hole an above the hole is a dot or punch mark aline the mark to the case mark an remove the plug over flywheel an turn flywheel till you see T an use it to set your timing but be sure your on compression stroke an not exhaust stroke.
Hi, This might sound silly but I cant for the life of me get the three bolts off that hold the centrifugals clutch cover on. They just spin in both directions and don’t loosen or tighten any. Any special trick? Thank you for your help!
I just hold the center of the centrifugal clutch still with one hand and use my impact wrench to loosen the bolts. The center of the centrifugal clutch will need to be locked still to get the bolts out without an impact wrench. If you cant borrow a good air or electric impact wrench you’ll have to improvise a way to hold the clutch still while you remove it with a hand tool.
I was talking about the cover in the second picture but I think my three bolts are just stripped. Thanks for your help.
I was talking about the same three bolts. If you think they a stripped grab the heads with a pair of locking pliers and pull out on them while turning them. Then you will have to decide whether or not to put helicoils in the clutch hub or replace it.
What size were the nuts on the centrifugal and the clutch basket?
It’s been so long since one has been here that I can’t remember but I’m reasonably sure it’s in the 17-19mm range. Don’t forget the centrifugal clutch nut has left hand threads.