How to Get Better Fuel Mileage Part 1

A couple of weeks ago I promised to do an article about motorcycles and fuel economy, since it does seem to be popular subject people are searching for more information about. There are many things to consider, but perhaps the biggest single key to getting the most fuel economy is to start with the right motorcycle. For the sake of this article we are not going to be considering anything not capable of running at least 60 mph thereby completely eliminating all of the “moped” class machines. Although if you live in a city and do a lot of driving in areas with low speed limits you may still wish to consider one.

This is by no means meant to be a complete listing. Your mileage may vary etc. There may be many similar or equal machines to the ones that I have named below so don’t beat me up if I left out your favorite. Please note figures given are gleaned from EPA ratings, personal experience, and/or reliable motorcycle data websites, and apply only to well maintained factory stock machines.

<Sym Wolf Classic 85 mpg>

Sym Wolf Classic 85 mpg

The smallest machine that I looked at for this article was the Sym Wolf 150, a great looking little machine. Light & nimble it is the smallest motorcycle I would consider for street duty, other than the CB125 that the Wolf is a direct descendant of. Rated at 85 mpg it has great fuel economy, but has a top speed of around 65 mph, and being a very small light machine without much load capacity, I’d recommend you stay off the freeway with this one.

<Royal Enfield Classic 500 85mpg>

Royal Enfield Classic 500 85mpg

Surprisingly enough the next motorcycle up in the mpg sweepstakes is a heavy solid steel piece of spiritually British iron. Built in India for several decades, the Royal Enfield 500 has gradually evolved from a clunky unreliable relic, into a machine with a reasonably modern fuel injected engine slotted into a chassis that is still a relic, but in a good way. 27 hp combined with heavy construction isn’t going to win any drag races but the 85 mpg is astounding in a machine with enough torque for passenger hauling, and with an 80+ mph top speed you can still get on the freeway and go places. I probably wouldn’t keep it pegged WFO for hours on end but it is still capable of interstate travel at a relaxed pace.

<CCW Tha Heist 80mpg>

CCW Tha Heist 80mpg

Next in the range are the 250 class retro & cruiser bikes such as the CCW’s Tha Misfit & Tha Heist, the evergreen Honda Rebel and Suzuki TU250 fit this group as well. These are decent little machines that are capable of up to 80 mpg. Extensive Freeway duty is a bit questionable on any of them but they are definitely a step up from the smaller Wolf. If you gotta travel the high speed roads you should probably look at the Japanese offerings first. The CCW bikes are great looking though and they do have a catalog of hop up parts to get more speed out of them but that will probably diminish fuel mileage.

A small step down in fuel economy but a huge step up in performance is the 250-300cc sport bikes such as the Kawasaki Ninja & Honda CBR. The baby Ninja can get just a tiny bit past the ton in bone stock condition even with a fat boy like me on it, and while I haven’t ridden the CBR250 yet, all the magazine testers put its top speed around 97 mph. The best part is that both of these bikes are as reliable as anvils, more than capable of traveling anywhere you want to go at any legal speed without ever breaking a sweat. Being fast enough to beat most cars at the stoplight drag races is also a very comforting safety feature as well. These bikes are capable of 70 mpg when ridden conservatively and still knock down over 55 mpg when you ride the snot out of them.

<Honda  NC700X 64mpg>

Honda NC700X 64mpg

I have consciously tried to avoid singling out any one machine for praise, especially one that I have not ridden yet, but the Honda NC 700 X is rated at a very good 64 mpg. This is a full size 700cc adventure touring type machine capable of cross country touring on any road of your choice. Compare that to a big scooter such as Honda’s own Forza with its streamlined bodywork and 300cc engine that only gets about 4 mpg more.

There is a huge range of motorcycles that slot into the 45-55 mpg range. Harley Sportsters, FXRs, etc., most cruisers, vintage bikes in the 350-850cc range. Practically every 600cc sportbike made by anyone can get 50 mpg+ and provide amazing performance. Even some of the 900-1000cc bikes can do 45 mpg. At this range the cars are starting to catch up mpg wise but these are incredibly slow & boring cars that get this kind of fuel mileage.

<kawasaki-ninja-zzr1400zx14>

It only gets 33-39 mpg but does anyone really care?

You don’t really drop below 45 mpg until you get into either hyper sport machines such as the ZX14 Ninja or the Hayabusa, or full dress touring motorcycles like the Gold Wings, K1600 BMW, & Electra-Glides. Even so most of these machines are still capable of 35-45 mpg averages. While they are not economical sounding in motorcycle terms, in the economy of scale against other forms of transport with the same intended mission they are still very reasonable. The big touring machines are incredibly luxurious and loaded down with more amenities today than anyone ever thought possible. To get a performance automobile capable of matching the speed of a box stock big bore sport bike will cost you at least $100,000 and it won’t get anywhere near 30 mpg.

<Electra Glide Ultra 42mpg>

Yes the biggest Harley is rated at 42 mpg combined. Impressive.

As I said at the beginning if fuel mileage is what you are after in a motorcycle, the best way to get it is simply to buy the right motorcycle, maintain it well and ride it in a careful and conservative manner, keeping your speed down as much as safely possible. I’ll come back in a few weeks and touch on some maintenance items that you need to be sure to keep up with to maximize fuel economy, and at a later date will write a post about modifications & driving techniques, to help you wring every last mile out of your dollar.

Lining a Fuel Tank with Kreem Tank Liner

Kreem tank liner kit

Kreem tank liner kit

This is sort of a combo how to and product review. I will admit that my review is a little biased because I have been using this product for over 20 years and have always been satisfied with the results. I wont repeat the instructions word for word but I will give you a few tips to help you get better results. First empty your tank and remove the petcock and filler cap if it is bolted to the tank.

Remove the Kawasaki locking fuel cap

Remove the Ninja’s locking fuel cap

The next step is critical to getting good results especially if working with the tank from a 2 stroke engine. You must completely degrease the inside of the tank with a good industrial degreaser. Do not use dish liquid because it often contains oils to protect skin. Be prepared to wash it more than twice if needed to get the oil out.

Wash & degrease tank thougoughly

Wash & degrease tank thoroughly

Now open up the kit and get out the bottle labeled “A” wash & cleaner. Use duct tape or a blocking plate to block all of the holes in the bottom of your tank. I like to use a piece of metalized tape first and then cover it with duct tape.

Kreem Kit Part A

Kreem Kit Part A Use proper precautions for mild acid.

The instructions say to use warm water and I agree it does help the acid work much faster. Please note the standard kit shown here is for smaller tanks. Normally for a 5 gallon tank like this I would buy the larger size, but I had some left over from a previously restored tank, that I added in after using this up according to the instructions. The cleaner part A can be saved and re-used a time or two.

Warm water is reccomended to mix with cleaner

Warm water is recommended to mix with cleaner

After the tank is full seal off the top and let it sit for at least the minimum time given in the instructions. Since this was an old tank with some rust inside I let it sit overnight. At this stage some people will put in rocks or nuts & bolts and shake the tank to help remove thick rust. If you need to do this I recommend that you use steel nuts & bolts so that you can retrieve them easily with a magnet. Some fuel tank designs make it difficult to remove rocks after you are finished cleaning out the rust.

Next remove all tape from the openings rinse the tank well until the water comes out clean. and then thoroughly dry the tank on the inside. Since I had plenty of time I placed the tank in a hot sunny location to air dry. In the winter time or if you are in a hurry use a hair dryer or a hot air gun to speed up the process.

<ninja fuel tank drying in the sun>

fuel tank drying in the sun

I do need to warn you about one thing if you are trying to fix a tank with a nice paint job or if you are coating a new tank as a preventative measure you want to be very careful with this stuff, especially in the next two steps.

Seal up all the holes again and get out part “B” the conditioner. This bottle contains MEK which can remove paint faster than tequila removes panties. If you have a nice paint job & spill this on it, you wont have a nice paint job anymore, so be careful. I am re-painting this tank so I don’t really care if I spill some. After sealing the tank back up shake all around the inside of the tank & the carefully drain it out protecting your paint as needed.

Kreem Part B final rinse

This is highly flammable & can destroy paint so be careful.

Since the petcock on this one bolts into place before going to the next step I put two screws in the bolt holes to keep the threads clear. To me this is just much easier than cleaning out the holes afterward.

petcock screw holes

I like to put bolts in these holes to keep them clear

Now you are ready for the bottle of fuel tank liner. All the same warnings about paint damage apply to this bottle as well.

Kreem Part C liner

Kreem Part C liner

Here is a shot of how I use the metal tape first & then cover it with duct tape to seal the openings in the tank. It works well for me, but I make no garuntee that it will work this well for everyone.

<handymans best friend>

Red Green is absolutely right about this stuff! (Duct tape that is)

Then pour in the whole bottle of liner, and then seal up the filler hole as I did in the next picture.

pour in Kreem Tank Liner

pour in Kreem Tank Liner

then seal up the filler hole

then seal up the filler hole with duct tape

Then spend the next 30 minutes or so slowly rotating the tank end over end and sideways until you are 100% certain that the entire inside of the tank has been covered with sealant. Next (and this is very important) open the tank back up and drain the excess sealant back into its original bottle. Do not leave it in the tank as it will greatly increase drying time. If too thick it may skin over on the top and take nearly forever to dry all the way through, causing you to have problems later. I usually save the excess to use on the next project. I am usually able to do a lawnmower tank or two with the leftovers.

Like I said if you follow the instructions in the kit and the hints that I gave here you should be able to tackle this job yourself at home. Just give yourself a couple of days if your tank is rusty, and be sure you drain the excess sealant out of the tank and give it time to dry really well. This stuff aint cheap at approximately $50 a pop (November 2012 price) so you want it to work right the first time. I have used other tank sealers with varying degrees of success, but I always come back to the original Kreem brand. Plus it is usually in stock on the shelves in most motorcycle dealerships. Besides have you priced a new gas tank lately? It’ll give you a coronary!

Peace Y’all